Today, we ventured into totally new territory for us as we have never visited the Dordogne.
First, we had another sumptuous breakfast made by Francine and more French conversation with the three other guests.
Then, we drove into St Emilion and located Chateau Angelus, which is under construction, but there were wonderful views of the vineyards and chateaux. We ate in the clock tower square at a so-so restaurant, sort of through a mix up as we got it confused with a nearby restaurant reviewed in "the Wine Spectator" but it was okay as the other one was too expensive for us anyhow. And, the view over the town was great. ( the weather is a bit warmer...maybe 60 degrees and glimpses of sun)
Then we drove to Aubus, a very small hamlet just outside Montignac, on a river. We broke our rule and went on a motorway for less than 60 kilometers.....and it cost €3.90! So...we will try not to do that again. We got a little lost, but found the B&B, La Four a Sel, a beautiful old farmhouse owned by two British ex-pats, Brenda and Dave. We are the only guests.
chilly.
Then, we drove into the stunningly beautiful Sarlat, with about half an hour of being lost on really twisty back roads. But, in the process, we also discovered a beautiful old village, so it was okay. Anyway, we walked around Sarlat, an ancient village, the last one in France still lit by gas lamps.
We walked to the Lantern of the Dead, built in 1147 in thanks to Bernard of Clairvaux for helping the town during the plague which killed 25% of the people.
Dark stone roofs are famous as most have not survived elsewhere. They are steep and covered with lichen, which seals them. We ate at a restaurant found in Rick Steve's book, La Mirandol, which had a cave in the back. The area is noted for foie gras and walnuts. (In fact, our B&B is set amid walnut trees). I had a mushroom omelette, the region also noted for mushrooms). Mark had foie gras, duck in truffle oil, some local cheese, which I ate as it was too strong for him, and then delicious walnut tart. We both also had potato Sarlandaise, thinly sliced and cooked in duck fat. it seems everything here has duck fat! Whew! A lot of food!
Then...back to our stone B&B which is a bit
Wednesday, April 10, 2013
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