The Walls of Dubrovnik and a swim, May 2

We got up early and hiked (!) to town to beat the cruise ship passengers to the wall hike around Dubrovnik.  So, we were among the first up...plus, we wanted to beat the heat.  (It is in the 80s and we are NOT complaining!  Finally, we got to wear our shorts!) The hike is almost two kilometers and involves a lot more stairs.  We circled the entire city.  Stunning.  The city has been walled for most of its history, but really got beefed up on the 15th century for defense against the Ottoman navy.

The civil war really destroyed Dubrovnik.  There is a map by the gates which shows where the bombs fell.  The city was under Serb siege for 8 long months.  The people sheltered in the medieval walls, a strange thing to think about...the truly old defenses held modern people safe, as well as the Napoleonic fort above the city. Had it fallen, so would the city As the high ground would have been lost.  From the walls it was so apparent as the red new roofs outnumber the older faded roofs, by a lot.  There is still a lot of evidence - you can see pockmarks everywhere from bombs and shrapnel.  It is rather stark and your minds are pulled between medieval history, its golden age and the more recent civil war.

After our strenuous hike, we went back to the same cafe for breakfast...and another hike back home for lunch.  In mid afternoon we hiked back down, found the nearby Town Beach and I went swimming.  It is pebbly and uncomfortable!  I met a nice woman doctor from Mostar in Bosnia who has an apartment in Dubrovnik.  We chatted as we swam together.  Both her kids are studying to be doctors.  She said that Mostar was like a city of divorce with the cultures very separate.  She was not optimistic about its future and planned to retire in Croatia.

Then, we went to a little restaurant, Gusta Me, for more Internet and a beer. Then, another hike back home to sit on the terrace, watch the ships and read.  Peaceful.  And lots of exercise.