To Montgoyon, March 28

   Today was one of those "off the beaten track" days. In the rain.
   We only had about 200 K to drive today and decided to program the GPS for "no tolls," "no highways."

The options then were: shortest, fastest, ecologique and compromise. We have no idea what the last two are, but put in "ecologique" and ended up going on very small roads through forests and swamps and a bit of a round-about way. So, we changed it to "fastest". Hmmmm.
    Our first destination was Cognac, on the Charente River, an ancient town of about 20,000 people. Of course, it is known for cognac, but that was not why we chose to visit. We had been recommended it as a pretty town, an old medieval trading post.
     Once we got a parking spot, we went online to find a good restaurant as well as directions. Ah...the modern methods of travel. Of course, it was still raining and we didn't want to walk too far.

     We found L'Olympias, a creperie and had the special of the day. It was a specialty of Bretagne - buckwheat pancakes or galettes. (ble noir de Bretagne). Buckwheat is a fruit seed related to rhubard and not at all related to wheat or grains. It has more protein that many grains and is completely gluten-free. Who knew? Anyhow, our galettes were plate-sized with salmon, puree of peas and leaks, and possibly sweet potato (not sure). At any rate, they were delicious!
     Then, we made our way to Montgoyon to the bed and breakfast run by Michel and Francine Besse where we stayed 5 years ago. It is in a very small village. There were several detours and "route barree" signs (road blocked completely) and we wound up on some VERY small roads (tracks really) through farms. We wove all over the place. Mark was very patient.

    Somehow, we found the small bed and breakfast and re-united with Michel and Francine.

(We gave him a bottle of wine from Ile de Re as he'd given us some wine last time we stayed here.) Their daughter is going to an exchange program in Irvine, California this weekend for 3 months. Michel has retired as a pilot, very happily.

      He sat with us for well over an hour helping us to plan our day in Bordeaux tomorrow giving us tips such as - do not take a car in - take the tram. He also helped us to map our route to Arles as we like sticking to back roads and avoiding the motorways. (The cost from Paris to La Rochelle was about 41 Euros for 500 Kilometers. But, this is not about the cost. You just don't see anything from a motorway; you might as well stay in the U.S.)

     We chose to have a quiet evening of reading and will snack on some fruit and heat up some soup that we bought.