We left the b and b in Castlegregory by taxi which took us to the train station at Tralee. Mary, our landlady, served us the most minimal of the breakfasts we've had. "Oh now, you don't want to fuss with a big breakfast," she said. So, it was a selection of cereal, some yogurts and fruit, but with a scone, too, and some brown bread.
The train to Mallow was on time and easy. But, the train at Mallow was super crowded because an earlier train was disabled and they put everyone on our train.
Hence, there were people in our "assigned seats" and they showed no sign of moving. But, we were lucky because there were people who had to sit in the aisles. There was no announcement by the train officials about the situation. It would have been good to have explained the problem. (We found out from the people who were next to us about the disabled train) They also should have asked if there were people who would give up their seats to the many elders who were on the floor. And, it was hot.
At any rate, we arrived a bit late and we took a cab to the Harding Hotel
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A needed coffee break |
in the heart of the city, a hotel that Mark and I had a credit for because of our cancelled trip of the Covid year, 2020. We checked in and then went out for a much-needed iced coffee. Across the street was the Smock Theatre which was advertising a play being performed by this year's graduates of their drama school, "Counting Puffins" and we bought tickets.
Then, we strolled to get our bearings wandering through Temple Bar, the pub district which was very crowded.
Jec found a Japanese restaurant for dinner. Our main meals were - sashimi (Jec) and ramen (me).We had goyoza and another appetizer, too. It was good. Danura, I think was the name.
The play was a lot of 2fun and was in a lovely old theatre dating to 1662 (!) called the Theatre Royal on Smock Alley. It was one of the first theatres in the world to use footlights. It played to 300 people 7 nights a week and included actors such as David Garrick. But, it fell into disrepair and closed in 1787 and was used for many years in a variety of commercial ways such as a warehouse. In 1811, it became a Catholic church. (The Church of St. Michael and John or, irreverently St. Mack and Jack.But, during the Penal Times, Catholic Churches were persecuted and the bells silenced. This church was the first to ring its bell in 300 years, so earned the term, Ireland's Liberty Bell.
It was not until 2012 that the building returned to its roots, 350 years after it was built and restored.
So, it was great to be in that space and witness the energy of the 18 or so young actors who acted in a play about 2 groups stranded in the fog on a little island (InnishPuffin) off the coast of Kerry where we just hiked. It was so fitting as we would not have understood the references to places we hiked and some of the inside jokes about the area. The two groups were 7 girls who were doing community service for minor offenses and a group who were put on the wrong island for a yoga/wellness retreat and have to share the 2-bedroom hovel (with outhouse) for 2 nights and well as nurse a baby puffin and fear there is a murderer on the island. It was funny and perfect for us. The audience was made up mostly of friends and family of the actors which made it more fun.
Then - back to the Harding and to bed.
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