Sunday, June 15, 2025

June 15 - A hard day for both of us. Dingle to Dunquin


Close to the end of the day, along the road. Jecca loaned me her hat.

   We had another terrific breakfast and Claire, who has organized the trip and who owns Celtic Nature Tours, met us and gave us our packed lunch. She is so very nice. I started out without my walking poles and called her and she brought them to us on the road.

    We walked 15.3 miles and it was much hotter and sunnier than we expected. I did not take my hat or put on sunblock as we did not expect the weather which started out cloudy, cool and misty. This was a mistake.

 

Ventry Beach, early in the day when it was misty

    The first part of the day was glorious. We hiked to Ventry Beach and then walked about 2.5 kilometers on the hard packed sand. Then we went away from the beach, which, of course, means climbing. There was one muddy bit and lots of walking through bracken on a narrow path. We ate our lunch at the top of one climb by sitting on a lovely boulder. (A family we've been meeting from Montana was just leaving the spot as we arrived.) 
remains of a clochan

In the bracken

     The views over Dingle Bay and the Blaskets were breathtaking. The many stone walls dividing the fields were so interesting...and of course, a lot of sheep and cows. We saw ancient clochans which were stone huts used for hundreds of years. Dingle has over 400 of them. Some are beehived shapes and some have only the remains of the circle of stones. Some were domestic dwellings for monks. 

The Blasket Islands

      We forded just one stream on stepping stones - thanks to Jecca for guiding me. We went along the side of Eagle Mt. 

     As we descended (steep!), we saw Dunmore Head which is the most westerly point in Ireland. It had a lot of cars and walkers. We had to keep going. Once we got to the road, the walking was easier in some way, but also hot and LONG. 

       Through our error, we took a wrong turn and did about 2 more miles than need be. We were swayed by another hiker whose app told her that she was wrong and we foolishly followed her. That last 2 miles was hot and we were both overheated, especially me.

Two more slow miles, but close to Dunquin

      Rather than go to our b and b "Glean Deargh" which was further along, we went right to Kruger's Pub, the only one in the village. (This is a small village - no shops at all.) The menu had no greens which I really wanted. Jecca immediately got me 2 pints of ice water and I pretty much collapsed into the seat.

After a bit, I wobbled to the bathroom and put water on my face. I began to revive and cool down. We split a beef stew that was really excellent and a bit of fried fish. English hikers who we have met over the last 2 days came in and said that they had a tough day, too. They were at the b and b last night and are here tonight. Two women from New Mexico asked us to sit with them for a bit and they, too, thought it was a rough day. So - that made me feel a little better for  being completely spent.

We have walked from furthest distant point

      Then - we made our way to the B and B and took showers. We are in for the night.

      Lessons: always take the hat, even if it looks cloudy. Always apply sun block. Listen to our instincts and not those of strangers.

      

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