June 18- We Did It! Cloghane to Castlegregory

 

 Today we started out from Cloghane with the gang of people we've sort of been traveling with. The kitchen got a bit overwhelmed with all the hikers leaving at the same time.

 

  We were smart and wore short sleeved shirts and hats today and applied sun screen liberally and often. It was warm (hot for hiking) and, other than a small climb out of Cloghane, the bulk of the day was walking on Ireland's longest beach which was lovely, but...no shade. We had the option of going all the way out a long peninsula and back, but Jecca and I opted for a short cut across the peninsula, cutting off 6 miles. For one, we are used to beaches and 18 miles just seemed a LONG way, even in the flat. We still managed to hike 12 miles.  We stopped twice for some fairly long stops to eat and drink. We knew we did not want to arrive early at the b and b.

   The views back to Mount Brandon which Jec climbed in the mist yesterday were beautiful as they were looking out over islands called the 7 Hogs.

   

A group of horses and riders went by which looked like a lot of fun.

   And, just before we crossed to the other side (the shortcut), there was a group of children taking surfing lessons.

      When we got to the other side, it was another world with a large holiday encampment of mobile homes and lots of amusing beach toys in the water. We went from a rather deserted beach to a much fuller and commercial one.

 

  The last 2 miles were mostly asphalt, not our favorite. And definitely not my favorite with a very blistered toe on my left foot and my two injured big toes. (The toe sleeves the health care workers gave me were a big help.

We found out that they met through their work with Doctors Without Borders and had worked together in Darfur and in Kharkiv when it was under air assault. Ruth lives in Amsterdam working for the organization and Philena works as a school nurse because she now has children.

      We had a very welcome iced latte in a coffee shop in Castlegregory where we lingered so that we didn't arrive at Kelliher's b and b too early.

       We are in a nice b and b run by Mary Kelliher who gave Jec a cup of tea when I showered.

     

 Later we walked (!). back to the village to Fitzgerald's Pub for a truly fantastic meal. Jecca loaned me her sneakers to walk in as they have more room for my poor toes. We split a Pizza (thin crust, goat cheese, arugala, simmered red onions) and a chicken caesar salad.  The desserts looked like works of art, but we passed as we were too full and didn't even finish the pizza.

     Best of all, we met up with the health care workers and we bought their beers. They have been so kind. Later, the English couple from Ascot came on - also lovely. The latter are at the B and B with us, so we will see them tomorrow. They will go back to Dingle for a few days of relaxation.

     Jec celebrated our successful hike with a 12-year old Irish Whiskey.

    Yay! We finished! It was great!

June 17- Jecca hikes Mount Brandon; Barbara rides with the luggage

   Today we had another sumptuous breakfast made by Phyl - more salmon with eggs for us both - yum.

   Jecca, Paul and Caroline (couple from Ascot) rode in a van to the trailhead to hike Mount Brandon in the mist. I rested and sat in the solarium and Mike, (husband of Phyl) drove me to Cloghane, a village of under 300 people.

    He dropped me and the luggage at O'Connor's pub in business since 1860. Ohe room was not yet ready, so I found a nice picnic spot on the beach and ate my lunch and read a book peacefully and happily - especially for my feet.

     I met two men from Hawaii - both anesthesiologists. They are doing a "comfort walk" of about 10-12 kilometers a day. They are celebrating one of them retiring. When the pub opened, I had a pot of tea at the next table. 

   To my utter surprise, Jecca walked in at 2:45! She did the predicted 8 hour hike in 5 hours despite the fog and the mist. She is amazing.

    She enjoyed the hike but did say that I would not have enjoyed it. She met up with most of the people we've met in the last few days - the women from N.Mexico, the family of three from Montana and, of course, the people from Ascot with whom she was dropped off. All will be staying here tonight. It is very homey. Our room is at the back and overlooks the harbor.

    Her pictures of the hike of Mount Brandon:

    Everyone ate dinner at the pub which was very good. Jecca had a fish pot pie with colcannon, a mashed potato/cabbage combination. I had fish chowder. Then, we both had desserts - all good. There was good conversations all around. The friends from N.M. are both in health care - one with Doctors Without Border who is working in Amsterdam. Her background is midwifery. The other is also in health care. One of them gave me some toe bandages for my blackened big toes. We found out that the daughter who is with her parents (Montana) is an: English teacher as well as an ultra marathoner. 

     

June 16- A flatter day! Yay!

Sign in Ballydavid

   Today we started out from Dunquin where we had a separate little apartment, so our food was delivered to our rooms. The breakfast was welcome as it had homegrown garden vegetables with the eggs and we have felt a bit vegetable deprived since we left Tralee.

Arrival in Ballydavid, but that sign is in Irish and means 
Town of Strangers

     The day started up with a steep climb in a moorland and then we went down steeply. Again, it started out a little chilly and overcast. It was also a bit windy.

   

We had a good deal of lovely beach walking today, which was great after yesterday when I was not sure that I'd be able to carry on. When we got to the first beach, Smerwich (Viking for "butter" and "harbor),

we took a nice long picnic rest as we knew we'd arrive earlier than any other day due to the flat terrain. I never thought I'd say, "I am so glad that we are walking ONLY 11 miles." 

     After a bit more walking, there was another little beach, Wine Strand.

     It really was a lovely and relaxed walk.

    We met up with the family from Montana en route, as well as the women from New Mexico. It is nice to happen upon people as they are resting, or eating, or overtake us.

    We are in the village of Ballydavid (Town of Strangers). 

    We were too early to get into our bed and breakfast, "Imeall Na Mara", so we went to Tigh pub for a pot of tea. The restaurant was rather unorganized and discombobulated and the tea was a bit expensive at 7 Euros, but...never mind. It gave us a nice place to sit and rest rather than sitting outside the bed and breakfast.

      Caroline and Paul, a couple from Ascot, joined us at the pub and we walked to the B and B, which now had a post-it - "Be back in 30 minutes" with no indication of when the 30 minutes started. But, we passed the half hour in good conversation and then Phil, the landlady, came back with 2 other guests who she had to pick up somewhere.

Our B and B - gorgeous

     We are in a lovely huge room with a huge bathroom - all handicapped accessible which Phil told us they had to install to get their license when they converted their house from a house with a shop and post office attached into a B and B. She said it cost thousands in extras. She was the post office mistress for over 30 years.

     After a shower, we walked back to the pub and we each had fish soup. We ordered dessert which never came. When I paid, I specified not to be charged for the dessert, but we are pretty sure that we were as it came to 38 Euros with just the soups and 1 Guinness. There was no itemization. Oh well. 

    Then - back to our room where we watched some game shows.

A beautiful tiny moth

    We made a decision for me to go with the luggage tomorrow. A car which will drop Jecca and the couple from Ascot off at the base of Mount Brandon which is labeled as a "strenuous" and long 16-mile day. I just am not up to it. The ascents and descents would be just too steep for me. Plus, I need a rest and have a few blisters and bruised toes. I feel badly having Jecca do it alone, but she really wants to do it and looked forward to this particular day as the views should be spectacular. She was willing to sacrifice the day for me and I didn't want that. I am perfectly happy to go with the car and wander the beach area and small village of Cloghane. She's afraid I will be bored, but - I have a book and am rarely bored. I will be a bit nervous with her hiking alone, but there are quite a few people on the trail and she feels very comfortable about it.

Louis Mulcahy pottery

Standing stones with old symbols, but fenced from public

   

     

       

June 15 - A hard day for both of us. Dingle to Dunquin

Close to the end of the day, along the road. Jecca loaned me her hat.

   We had another terrific breakfast and Claire, who has organized the trip and who owns Celtic Nature Tours, met us and gave us our packed lunch. She is so very nice. I started out without my walking poles and called her and she brought them to us on the road.

    We walked 15.3 miles and it was much hotter and sunnier than we expected. I did not take my hat or put on sunblock as we did not expect the weather which started out cloudy, cool and misty. This was a mistake.

 

Ventry Beach, early in the day when it was misty

    The first part of the day was glorious. We hiked to Ventry Beach and then walked about 2.5 kilometers on the hard packed sand. Then we went away from the beach, which, of course, means climbing. There was one muddy bit and lots of walking through bracken on a narrow path. We ate our lunch at the top of one climb by sitting on a lovely boulder. (A family we've been meeting from Montana was just leaving the spot as we arrived.) 

remains of a clochan

In the bracken

     The views over Dingle Bay and the Blaskets were breathtaking. The many stone walls dividing the fields were so interesting...and of course, a lot of sheep and cows. We saw ancient clochans which were stone huts used for hundreds of years. Dingle has over 400 of them. Some are beehived shapes and some have only the remains of the circle of stones. Some were domestic dwellings for monks. 

The Blasket Islands

      We forded just one stream on stepping stones - thanks to Jecca for guiding me. We went along the side of Eagle Mt. 

     As we descended (steep!), we saw Dunmore Head which is the most westerly point in Ireland. It had a lot of cars and walkers. We had to keep going. Once we got to the road, the walking was easier in some way, but also hot and LONG. 

       Through our error, we took a wrong turn and did about 2 more miles than need be. We were swayed by another hiker whose app told her that she was wrong and we foolishly followed her. That last 2 miles was hot and we were both overheated, especially me.

Two more slow miles, but close to Dunquin

      Rather than go to our b and b "Glean Deargh" which was further along, we went right to Kruger's Pub, the only one in the village. (This is a small village - no shops at all.) The menu had no greens which I really wanted. Jecca immediately got me 2 pints of ice water and I pretty much collapsed into the seat.

After a bit, I wobbled to the bathroom and put water on my face. I began to revive and cool down. We split a beef stew that was really excellent and a bit of fried fish. English hikers who we have met over the last 2 days came in and said that they had a tough day, too. They were at the b and b last night and are here tonight. Two women from New Mexico asked us to sit with them for a bit and they, too, thought it was a rough day. So - that made me feel a little better for  being completely spent.

We have walked from furthest distant point

      Then - we made our way to the B and B and took showers. We are in for the night.

      Lessons: always take the hat, even if it looks cloudy. Always apply sun block. Listen to our instincts and not those of strangers.

      

A Day in Dingle - June 14, 2025

 

 Today was a much-needed day of rest. We only walked 3.5 miles all day.   

 

We started with an amazing breakfast made by Maggie who is a terrific cook. I had salmon with a poached egg. Jecca had eggs with tomato, pancetta and parmesan. We both had a yogurt/fruit compote for a starter. So far - the best breakfast and best accommodations of the trip.

   

In the morning we walked around town checking out the shops. Jecca bought a few things including a gorgeous woolen scarf. We got some cheese and crackers to keep for tomorrow's hike. 

 

 We had coffee and then set off to Dingle Dolphin Boat tours for a 3.5 hour trip out Dingle Harbor to the now-deserted Blasket Islands.

The cliffs going out the harbor are truly amazing and could really only be appreciated from the water. Blasket island looks a bit eerie and forlorn with its abandoned buildings. We would have needed to book a tour land on the island in advance.

   

  We saw many birds - including razor bills, fulmars (new for me, I think), guillemots, shearwaters, kittiwakes, cormorants, oyster catchers and one peregrin. But, the highlight, toward the end of the trip when we thought we might not see any - puffins! Definitely a first for me. Impossible to get a photo, though.

      And, amazingly dozens of dolphins accompanied the boat, some cruising at the bow. It was magical and enchanting and we understand now why there are so many references to dolphins in Dingle. And, we also saw two minke whales, but they were fleeting glances and they never resurfaced.

   

  When we docked, we were really hungry and we went back to the Fish Box where we ate last night as it was so good. I had fish without chips and had a salad instead. Jecca had fish tacos. Again - all good.

   

  We then walked next door to Dick Mack's Pub where we saw in the garden and listened to a bit of music by two men - one on guitar and the other on accordion and harmonica. It was not Irish music, which was disappointing and mostly music from the likes of Dylan and Jim Croce. Then - back home to get packed and ready for tomorrow's hike.

        We know that members of our family participated in today's No Kings Protest and just heard about the assassination in Minnesota of a state senator. We are horrified.

Joann on Nantucket

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