Tuesday, October 1, 2024

Last full day in Arles; Travel to Lyon, September 29 & 30

 September 29 - 


   Jerry left early today to spend the day at the  La Fetes des Associations in downtown Arles at a booth devoted to help for the families of those with mentally ill members.

After he left, and we had breakfast, Stephane tested positive for Covid. This necessitated cancelling our afternoon with Bruno and Juliette because they take care of their grandson. 


    Instead, Michael and Stephane took us by car to the bridge from Trinquetaille to Arles and we walked slowly to where Jerry was set up. It was festive with groups from Arles set up along the main street. They included dance groups (including Jerry's tango group), historical associations, re-enactors, music schools,  martial arts groups, environmental groups etc. There were performances also of dancers, drummers etc. In the morning, it included floats, but we were not there early enough to see those.


The tents stretched about a half a kilometer on both sides of the street. The day was perfect, so it was well attended. Jerry seemed to know an awful lot of people. We also saw Juliette on her bike and we had a conversation which was nice and we all expressed that it was too bad that we had to cancel the afternoon. 




      We wandered the streets up to the Roman Colosseum  and the Roman Theatre which we had seen at night for the African Dance Performance. We had a bit to eat (poke bowls) and visited the Cathedral dedicated to St. Trophime which has been designated a UNESCO Heritage Site.  It build between the 12th and the15th Century and is a classic example of the architecture of the early Middle Ages and Romanesque architecture. It is quite impressive- narrow and tall with huge buttresses. Frederick Barbarossa of the Holy Roman Emperor was crowned at St Trophime in 1178. 

   We wandered back to Jerry's booth and he drove us home and he went back to break down the exhibit with one of his colleagues.


Narrow nave, Saint Tromphime

St. Tromphime

Part of portal of St. Tromphime

He came home pretty tired, but happy.

September 30 Travel Day - Arles to Lyon



    We had a day where some things went wrong, but were rectified.

    First, the Uber that Jerry ordered did not arrive. Luckily, his neighbor took us to the station where we caught the train. We accidentally sat in the first car, not realizing it was first class, but the two conductors let us stay there, partly as the train was not very full. It was about a 3 1/2 hour trip.


     The station in Lyon was busy and confusing. We got a taxi to take us close to 52, Rue Merciere which is in a pedestrian area of the island between the Rhone and Saone rivers. The taxi was a beautiful Tesla and a man who was backing up slammed right into us and did quite a lot of damage. We were close to our destination, so we got out as clearly the issue was going to take time to resolve. We felt badly for our driver who was not at fault.

 




 We found the place, but had the dickens of a time getting in.

The directions gave us a code for a lock box which we thought was on the door outside the apartment, but it didn't work. We had to ask the restaurant below us to let us in the main door, so we knew that we had to find the keys because, once the restaurant closes, we couldn't get in the front door. Ugh. And, we are up two flights of a narrow, stone spiral staircase - again! We seem to have a knack for finding narrow spiral staircases.

   



 Mark and Jerry went to a nearby cafe to access wifi and see if they could contact the owner of the apartment. Barbara stayed on the landing with the bags. Time was ticking. Jerry came to get Barbara to take her to the cafe and possibly have something to eat while we tried to sort out the problem. But, Barbara pulled on the mailbox at the bottom of the stairs and we found another lock box! At first, it also did not open, but then, we re-read the emails and it said to pull the box downward. Lo and behold! Keys! Great sighs of relief abounded.


   The flat is funky large with a shower you access by going up another little flight of stone stairs.

    We were all hungry and went to Leon, the restaurant that let Mark sit there for an hour trying to figure it all out. We ate outside. Jerry and Barbara had two different dishes of moules (mussels) and Mark had fish tacos.

    During the meal, a frightening parade of thugs in masks and carrying flares went by banging drums and shouting fascist epithets. There were about 75 of them. People around us were scared and we were also alarmed. But, they marched by and things returned to normal.

Lyon, Day 1 and Day 2, October 1 & 2

 October 1 First full in Lyon



     We explored our neighborhood today and are impressed with our location. Mark picked a great spot and a nice place.

      We went for coffee and a croissant first and then we walked to the Tourist Bureau at Place Bellecour where we found out about the transit tickers and got maps of the bus and metro lines.  It is a drizzly day, so we decided it was a perfect day for a museum.

Mark with Paul Bocuse, famous Lyonnaise chef

       We took a bus to the Museum of the Confluence at the southern end of the island between the two rivers. It is a science and anthropology museum which opened in 2014. It is said to look like a floating crystal cloud of stainless steel and glass. 

     There were a number of school groups there and they were quiet and attentive. The museum was rather empty of people, so it was easy to access all the exhibits which were organized into the topics of: "Origins, Species, Human Theater and Eternities." 


   
Museum of the Confluence

 Afterwards we took a tram, but had to get off early due to a political demonstration, but not one by the Far Right. This one was evidently against the government and probably a leftist union group protesting.



At any rate, we had to get off the tram and walk to a metro station and get on that. But, it was great as it took us to Place des Cordeliers which is a five minute walk from our place.



      We ate lunch on our street at the Winch restaurant. Mark and Jerry had a raviole dish of cheese and pasta and Barbara had a smoked salmon salad. We all liked our meals. Then, we found a SuperU grocery store and bought supplies for dinner etc.
Our windows are in the third floor of the brown building to the left of the Garden Bistro

     

From the Museum of the Confluence looking down at the confluence of the rivers

 What a nice rainy day, especially as we never were in any downpours, just drizzle and gentle rain.



Arles, September 27 & 28

 September 27 - Lunch with Bruno & Juliette, African Dance at Roman Theatre

      What a wonderful, full day.

Juliette & Bruno

      We went into Arles to eat a fantastic lunch hosted by gracious hosts, Bruno and Juliette. Despite our limited French, we somehow managed to communicate about a variety of subjects, not the least of which were American politics and the world importance of the next election. Jerry brought Bruno back from his U.S. visit some chocolate bars with Kamala Harris's portrait. 
Risotto & Fruits de la Mer


Bruno and Juliette's garden

      The five-course meal was delicious. Bruno is quite a chef. Among the dishes were a vegetarian pate, mushrooms in a yummy sauce, risotto with "fruits de la mer" (amazing), cheese from goat, sheep & cow with the grand finale of mousse au chocolat! 


     Later, we all met up at the Roman Theatre in Arles for an African Dance performance. It is hard to describe the athleticism and uniqueness of the performance. None of us had ever seen anything like it. The atmosphere and feeling of being in a Roman theatre was quite magical. 



    September 28-  Visit from Michael and Stephane

Mark, Jerry, Michael, Stephane

     We had a quiet day today; Mark and Jerry went shopping and prepared for a speidi meal for Michael and Stephane. 

     Barbara took a walk along the Petit Rhone toward Arles, stopping at the lions, about a mile from Jerry's house.

Lions en route on walk to Arles from Tinquetaille 

      We had a lovely visit from Michael and his husband, Stephane. Stephane arrived from Geneva and Michael from Montpellier. We had a feast - speidis, grilled vegetables, fruit salad.




Friday, September 27, 2024

Arrival in Arles; Restful and Homey, September 25 & 26

 September 25 Montpellier to Arles


We packed up our apartment after a last-minute pastry run in Montpellier. Jerry picked us up at La Place de la Comedie and we drove via the Camargue to Arles.



Jerry and Mark in Jerry's garden

 We had a lovely outside on Jerry's peaceful deck overlooking his large vegetable garden. Lunch was complete with tomatoes, peppers, and grilled zucchini grown in his garden. The three of us never run out of topics to talk about.



September 26 Peaceful Day in Arles


   This was a day off from touring and a day of rest, relaxation, repast, recollection.....and Mark getting a French haircut.

  While Mark had a haircut by a Brazilian in France, Jerry and Barbara did a bit of grocery shopping.



    We did a wash which dried fast because it was a sunny (80 degrees) and slightly breezy day.


     Otherwise - chatting and eating in the garden. Jerry went to tango in the evening.


Mark with his new haircut