Friday, May 24, 2019

Brooklyn Day 5, 3/23/19

  Today was our last full day in Brooklyn.
  We took the subways to the DUMBO area. The weather was blustery and there weren't a lot of people around. We found an old restaurant for lunch where we had a nice meal, but felt a bit pressured by an overly persistent waiter.
   Then, we caught the subway and went the entire length of Manhattan, all the way to Inwood Park, because we had been invited to the home of Ciaran, Kate, Ella and Mable. By happenstance, as we tried to find out way walking to their apartment, we ran into a woman who knew the area and was walking the same way. Throughout conversation, we found that she actually knows Ciaran and family! Small world even in NYC!
    We had a wonderful chili, made by Ciaran, and cake made by the girls. We had a tour of their amazing apartment with wonderful views from the roof balcony. It was great conversation. They had all seen the Ferryman and knew some of the actors, not to mention the story as Ciaran grew up in the area where the Ferryman was set. We heard fascinating stories of Kate's work as a voice/dialect coach with actors on Broadway. She worked on all the major plays of the season with the exception of the Ferryman. The girls gave us a potholder that they made. They raise money for water projects in Africa. It was a memorable afternoon - great food/company/conversation.

Brooklyn, Day 3 3/21/19

  Today was a totally-Brooklyn day. We hopped on the subway and spent the entire day at the Brooklyn Museum. We "did" 2 floors and then took a break for lunch at Lincoln Station Cafe. (Mark raved about the cheeseburger and Barbara had a kale salad.) Then, we went back to the museum and "did" some more and took a coffee break, too.
  There is an impressive amount of women artists in the Museum, although that included a Feminist Art Exhibit. We lingered over Judy Chicago's permanent installation of a 'last supper' featuring 39 plates and table cloths devoted to women from myth and history. Every plate was done to represent each woman's vagina and personality. It was quite arresting.
   We were also taken by the large Della Robbia that was recently restored.
   We spoke with two women art restorers who were working on huge Assyrian tablets. The apprentice was taking off old plaster with a tiny dentist-type instrument. So painstaking.
   It is a great museum.
   Afterwards we got some more take out and came home to eat. We walked about 5 miles today - museums do require a lot more walking than one expects.

Brooklyn, Day 4 3/22/19

 Today we had another day devoted to art.
 We met our friend, Weldon, at 101 Spring Street, the home of the Judd Foundation in NY. It involved a tour of the 5-story cast-iron building that Judd bought in the 60s.
   Each floor had a purpose. The ground floor was for exhibiting work. The second floor was his studio. The third floor was a kitchen/dining room. The fourth floor was a living room and the 5th room was for bedrooms. When he and his wife moved to Marfa, Texas, most of their personal items went with them, but he did return to Spring Street periodically to stay. A working artist showed us around on the 90 minute tour. There were less than a dozen of us, so it was very personal.
  The works remained as they were installed by Judd. He identified the building on Spring street as a source of permanent installation, something he later sought on a grander scale in Marfa.
   It was great to be with Weldon because he's an artist and knew all about the art scene at Judd's time. Judd did not approve labels like "minimalist" or even "sculptor." He called his creations "objects" instead. It was very thought-provoking. He did not like furniture to touch walls, so everything stood apart from walls to make them stand separately. We were not allowed to take photos, which was too bad as it's hard to describe the space in words.
   We also wandered by 59 Crosby Street where Weldon rented a huge loft for several years and where we visited him several times.
   Then we went to a little restaurant (Gatsby's) in Soho where we were able to talk for hours and catch up with Weldon. Around 5, we went our separate ways. We picked up a "minimalist" meal for dinner. (cereal!)
   And, when we got "home" we went across the street to Sunset Park to catch the views of Manhattan and the sunset. It was very blustery and chilly, so we did not linger.

Brooklyn, Day 2, 3/20/19

   Today we walked to the 9th Street Station and each got 7-day unlimited ride subway passes. We took the D train into Manhattan. It was a lovely day. We got out at 42nd St by Bryant Park, went to a Whole Foods and got some take out to eat in the park in the sunshine.
   We then walked to 45th Street to the Bernard Jacobs Theatre where we saw Jez Butterworth's amazing play, The Ferryman. It is set during the Troubles during the time of the hunger strikes. It tells the story of a former IRA activist who abandoned it to become a farmer in County Armagh, Northern Ireland. It has a large cast, mostly members of the Carney family. Quinn Carney, the activist-turned-farmer, has 7 children. The kids made for moments of comedy and were terrific. Quinn has fallen in love with the widow of his brother who has lived with the Carneys for 10 years with her 14-year old son. Seamus Carney's body, dead for 10 years, was recently discovered. He was executed by the IRA for "making mistakes." Three elders also live in the family - Aunt Pat who is a zealous supporter of the IRA, senile Aunt Maggie Far Away, who has her lucid moments and makes prophesies for the children in those moments and Uncle Pat, an earnest and peaceable man. Three male cousins from Derry visit for the Harvest which is being celebrated. One of them has recently joined the IRA and is full of rage. Quinn's wife, Mary, has taken to her bed for the past years, mostly to avoid seeing her husband fall in love with Caitlin Carney, Seamus's widow. The cast was rounded out by Muldoon, an IRA leader, two of his henchmen and the family priest who is being blackmailed by Muldoon. Whew - so complex, so full of wisdom, tragedy and pain. Family vs politics and which to put first. We were blown away by it. 

     And, surprisingly, we met the Artistic Director of Theatre Workshop coming out the same exit! What are the odds?
    Afterwards, we took the D train home, getting some take out on the way home.
    A wonderful day and a play we will talk about for years.
Set of The Ferryman

Nantucket to Brooklyn, 3/19/19 Day 1

   Mark left Nantucket with the Clarity on the 17th to spend St. Patrick's Day with Cal and Alice, Rob and Sandy. Barbara stayed on the island in order not to miss too many Chorus rehearsals.
    Mark picked Barbara up at the Hyline on the 19th and we drove directly to Brooklyn.
   We are staying in the Sunset Hill neighborhood thanks to a very generous friend. We are in a 4th floor walk-up that was one of the co-ops originally organized by New York Finns. The apartment is wonderful and filled with eclectic art collected over many years. It is on the edge of an almost-entirely Asian neighborhood.
   We were warned that parking is a real issue here, but, in typical Mark-has-the-force fashion, we snagged a spot that we can actually see from the apartment and we got there at exactly the right time. The weekly street cleaning had just been done, so we don't have to move the car until we leave at the end of the week.
    After unpacking, we followed our host's directions and walked down 8th Avenue where we stopped at a noodle place and had soup and brought home some dumplings for the evening. We also got some fruits at a local store. There are no large grocery stores in the neighborhood, but dozens of tiny groceries.